Woven Four-Patch Block

This is an alternate way to make a 4-patch block, using a weaving technique instead of the traditional piecing technique.  It produces a block with two layers with no visible seams like a traditional block.  This technique allows both sides to be used in the final design.  It is a raw edge technique that will produce tons of visual texture after washing.  


There is also no loss of size since there aren't any visible seams.  In traditional piecing, you lose 1/2" with every seam you sew.  So a 5" square cut into four 2 1/2" squares and sewed back together would produce a 4" square.  This technique keeps its original size and remains a 5" square.

Finished woven 4-patch block

This technique works with any size fabric square.  It's great for 5" and 10" pre-cut squares, but squares from scraps or yardard work also.  The woven 4-patch blocks can be used just as single-layer fabric and can be traditionally pieced into any design.  One charm pack of 42 - 5" squares will produce 21 5" blocks.  Add more charm packs to increase the number of blocks.

Supplies

  • 1 charm 5" pack in your choice of fabrics.  I like batiks, as it adds to the visual interest.
  • Roxanne Glue-It temporary washable basting glue 
  • Rotary cutter and mat
  • Acrylic Ruler
  • Stiletto or pin
  • Sewing machine
  • Coordinating or contrasting thread

Preparing and cutting the fabric

  1. Open the 5" Charm pack and flip through the fabrics, without disturbing the alignment of the pack.  Take note of how many duplicates of each fabric you have.  This will help in determining how to randomize the fabrics after cutting.
  2. Take out however many pieces you are comfortable cutting.  I like to cut 6-8 at a time.  Using an acrylic ruler and a rotary cutter, align the ruler down the middle of the block.  Check your measurements.  You should have 2 1/2" on each side of the ruler/cutting line.  It's important to be accurate in your measurements and cutting, as this will reduce the overall size of the block.
  3. Continue cutting the remaining squares until the whole pack is done.  Try to keep each rectangle pile in the same order.
  4. You now have two piles of rectangles measuring 2 1/2" x 5".  Label the piles as "A" and "B".
  5. Start with pile "A" and split the duplicates into two piles.  Remember to keep the piles in the same fabric order.  Label the new pile "C".
  6. Repeat step 5 with pile "B" and then label the new pile "D".

Separate duplicates into four piles

Labeled piles

Randomizing the piles

You can randomize the piles so each layer will have different fabrics in the 4-patch.  This is typically done by moving some of the top layers to the bottom.  For example, for four piles, leave pile 1 as is, then move the top layer of Pile 2 to the bottom.  Next, move the top 2 layers in Pile 3 to the bottom and finally move the top three layers in Pile 4 to the bottom.  This doesn't always work out correctly when dealing with duplicates.  But if you double the numbers then it works out correctly.
  1. Let's say there are 2 duplicates of each fabric. Use the following sequence to randomize the piles:
    • Leave pile "A" as it is.  
    • Take the top two layers in pile "B" and move them to the bottom of pile "B"
    • Take the top four layers in pile "C" and move them to the bottom of pile "C"
    • Take the top six layers in pile "D" and move them to the bottom of pile "D"

Write down the randomization number on the labels

Take the top layers and move to the bottom of each pile




Setting up your first block

  1. Take one fabric rectangle from pile "A" and place it horizontally on your mat. Next, take one fabric rectangle from pile "B" and place it vertically beside fabric "A".  Next, take one fabric rectangle from pile "D" and place it horizontally below fabric "B".  Next, take on fabric rectangle from pile "C" and place it vertically beside fabric "D", aligning it under fabric "A".  This produces an open center square and will help you keep organized as you are weaving and basting the rectangles together.
Arrange each block into this configuration

Weaving the rectangles

  1. Use fabric "A" as a guide to help you visualize a line that divides fabric "B", place a drop of basting glue in each of the corners of fabric "B".  Place a drop of basting glue in the middle of each of the previous dots along the edge and one in the center.  I like to add another four drops around the center dot.
  2. Place fabric "A" gently on top of fabric "B" and arrange it so it is squared up with fabric "B".  Do not press down on the joined fabric until everything is aligned. You can use your stiletto or a pin to gently coax the fabric into alignment. It is crucial that the two fabrics are at right angles, aligned along both edges and in the corner.  Press down to set the glue.
  3. Use fabric "B" as a guide and repeat the gluing technique on fabric "D".  Fold back fabric "B" onto fabric "A" and align fabric "D" right under fabric "A" making sure that edges touch and the sides are aligned.
  4. Flip down fabric "B" gently on top of fabric "D" and arrange it so it is squared up with fabric "D".  Press down to set the glue.
  5. Use fabric "C" as a guide and repeat the gluing technique on fabric "A".  Fold back fabric "D" onto fabric "B" to move it out of the way.
  6. Place fabric "C" gently on top of fabric "A" and arrange it so it is squared up with fabric "A".  Press down to set the glue.
  7. Repeat the gluing technique on fabric "C" using fabric "A" and "D" as guides.
  8. Flip over fabric "D" gently on top of fabric "C" and arrange it so it is squared up with fabric "A".  Press down to set the glue.
  9. The glue is repositionable until dry.  Use your stiletto or pin to adjust so that there is not a gap in the center of the block.  All four fabrics should touch each other in the center and all edges of the square should align with minimum fabric showing on the edge.
  10. Set the block aside to dry and repeat for each fabric layer in the piles.  
  11. Your woven 4-patch blocks are readying with stitching.


Applying glue dots to fabric "B"

Placing fabric "A" on top of fabric "B"

Applying glue drops to fabric "D"

Aligning fabric "D" with fabric "A"

Placing fabric "B" on top of fabric "D"

Applying glue dots to fabric "A"

Placing fabric "C" on top of fabric "A" and
applying glue dots to fabric "C"

The final basted block. 
Note the center where each fabric comes together. 
there is no gap and all edges are aligned



Stitching the block

You will need to stitch down the raw edges of the rectangles so they don't unravel and so the rectangles don't un-weave themselves or get out of alignment when working with them.  Treat them as you would bias edges, do not pull the weaving as you sew, let the sewing machine do all the work.  The steps below will walk through one block.  
  1. Determine the seam allowance you will use to stitch the interior edges down.  I set my Brother machine to a straight stitch and move the needle over 2.0mm from the left edge.  I also shorten the stitch length to 2.0mm.  I use my standard foot and use the clear edge as my guide.
  2. Make the necessary adjustments to your machine.  Sew a sample to ensure it is what you want.
  3. You are going to sew two lines down each side of the center woven lines, making a double 'cross' and a small box in the center of the block.  You do not need to secure the outer edges of the fabric, as the basting glue will continue to hold the fabric together.  If you decide to do edge stitching, make sure you have an 1/8 in seam or less to ensure the stitching doesn't show in the final project.
  4. Align the clear edge with the right side of the center woven line and begin stitching.  I like to backstitch at the beginning and end of each line.  This will prevent the stitching from coming out.  
  5. When you get the other end of the block, do not cut thread, instead, pivot the fabric so you can sew back down the other side of the center woven line.
  6. Check periodically to ensure the raw edges are captured in the stitching on both sides of the block.
  7. Repeat step 5 for the other center woven line.
  8. The block is now secured and you can use it as any other pieced block.  You can also edge join multiple blocks together using a zigzag or satin stitch or even a decorative stitch.
  9. At this point, you can also embellish the blocks with decorative stitching, applique, yarn, etc.  Keep in mind that embellishments, including couching yarn will distort the size of the block and you may need to square up the block.


Settings on a Brother
Innovis Pacesetter 500

Line up the clear edge with
the center woven edge

Close up of foot/needle placement

Pivot the piece when you reach
the other edge and realign the foot

Align the clear edge of the foot
with the center woven line

The final 'cross'

The block is two-sided. 
Make sure you check that the
edges on both sides are secure.

The blocks fold easily due
to the woven rectangles

The reverse side

Ideas for using the woven 4-patch block

  • Use as you would any fabric square, just remember this block is two layers thick.
  • Make a lightweight quilt by omitting the batting.  Just add a piece of backing fabric and quilt as usual.  It is three layers, so it still is a quilt.
  • Piece the blocks together and use your favorite bag, vest, or jacket pattern
  • Advanced:  Instead of cutting the squares in half, make the cuts off-centered.  The process for joining is the same, but you get a totally different look, some with secondary patterns when the blocks are joined.
  • Advanced:  Who said the cuts need to be straight.  This technique works for angled cuts too.  Give it a try after you've mastered the technique.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial.  I would love to see what you create with this technique, so post pictures on Social Media with the hashtag #jbhcrafts.
 
Love & Light, 
Jeff

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